Learning About : 3D Drawing

The outsole of this Reebok was printed using a technology developed for the automotive industry.

As a first step, this technology can create an outsole pattern without a mold.  However, the problems found in traditional footwear manufacturing of adhering the upper to the midsole is still present. 

I could see this printing out a full upper if a last is used to help retain the shoe's shape.  If the machine could incorporate threads, the upper gets even more strength.  The next challenge would be creating a one piece upper/midsole to mechanically attach to the mesh outsole.

Sources

http://www.gameplan-a.com/2016/10/tips-truly-innovate-former-nasa-engineer/

Learning About: Hyperbolic Geometry

Hyperbolic geometry is tough to explain, so I dug into youtube to help explain using crocheting as an example.

Traditional flat knitting machines can produce a 1 piece upper, but the end result still requires seam sewing and steam lasting to form to the foot.  A hyperbolic knitted/crocheted upper could potentially be made in one complete piece, without the need for lasting.  The key is where and how to increase the number of stitches when knitting.

Starting with the strobel as the base standard knit pattern, the hyperbolic knit would sweep outwards around the last spiraling upwards until it met at the top of the shoe.  By increasing or decreasing stitches, the upper would loosen or tighten as it wraps around the upper.  Creating support zones on the shoe is also an option,  The bottom 1/2 could be a stretchy weave to allow for give and the top 1/2 of the upper could be tighter weave to create the support.

Example

Example

End stitch at the top of the sock.

End stitch at the top of the sock.

Hyperbolic geometry is important because it came about back in the 1800's, and wasn't represented in a simple physical model until 1978.  Hyperbolic geometry is challenging convention, so it must be important.

A hundred years ago, the mathematician David Hilbert proved a theorem that it is impossible to represent the hyperbolic plane in three-dimensional space analytically,” he says. “ ‘Analytically’ means ‘with equations.’ Everybody left off the word analytically later on. They were worried that mistakes or errors would creep into mathematics through geometric intuition, and so they discouraged the study of geometry and everything associated with this weird kind of thinking.

Sneaker School - Day 3

After day 2, The Shoe Surgeon took our leathers to be skived.  Skiving is the removal of leather to reduce the thickness.  The overlapping pieces of leather were skived to fit together properly during bonding and stitching.

IMG_5898.JPG

In Learning About: Flat Knitting, I researched traditional sewing and found this video that explain the sewing process nicely.

Sewing is all about repetition.  I worked one stitch at a time on scrap pieces, until I felt comfortable to work on my pieces.  A sewing machine engages everything: arms, legs, eyes and ears.  The foot pedal, holding lining up the materials, listening to the hum of the machine.

After a few sloppy stitches, I started comparing my work to the one created by Nike on a high volume production line.  Perfect lines sewed by a person with years of experience?

Mass Production Sewing

Mass Production Sewing

Should I start that row over?  Should the stitches look exactly like the original? No.  Our learning comes from making "mistakes".

Each stitch told the story of learning by doing.  I am gaining confidence and building my custom creation, one stitch at a time.

UP NEXT - DAY 4 - More stitching/sewing and Lasting

Learning About : Flat Knitting

I wanted to dig deeper and research how PrimeKnit and Flyknit are created.

In this video, PrimeKnit uppers are created on a Stoll Flat Knitting Machine (CMS530 HP).

By changing the type of fabric, the stitch formation and tuck formation, the upper receivesdifferent zones of compression and comfort.

The ankle sleeve on the Lunar Epic Flynknit has regions of looser knit in the ankle bone area, and a tighter knit elsewhere to provide compression.